This is by far the easiest engine swap to complete on the first generation Civics for more torque than the OEM set up.  This swap can be done on both the 1200 and CVCC (1500) models but is easier with the CVCC model.  The reason for this is that the 1200 is a cross flow design whereas the 1500 (CVCC) is non cross flow - meaning the CVCC block is virtually identical to the EL and EK blocks.  I refer to EL and EK as these are the first 2 letters at the beginning of the engine code.

The EL Engine:

For North America, The EL was only available in Canada and Mexico (The US got the CVCC EF from 76-78 and EK from 79-83).  The  EL  is a non-CVCC 1600 cc motor and can be found in any 1st generation Preludes and 1st and 2nd generation Accords.   It is a non-cross flow motor with minor modifications through 76-78, 79-81 and 82-83.  The 82-83 models used a slightly different design so the heads are unique to the 82-83 engines as well as the exhaust and intake manifolds which had different port spacing than the 76-81 engines.  This is important when trying to find headers and intakes for these motors. 

79-81 EL Ports:                        82-83 Ports  
Exhaust = Siamesed                 Exhaust = Evenly Spaced    

Intake                O OO O                O OO O
Exhaust              OO  OO                O O O O  






















The EK Engine:

The EK was only available to the US. The EK is a 1751 CVCC motor and can be found in 1st generation Preludes and 1st and 2nd generations Accords.  The EK received some modifications from 79-81 and 82-83. 

EL meets EK:

The ideal combination is to use an EL head on the EK block.  The benefit here is you gain the extra displacement of the EK while ditching the power robbing CVCC design to the better flowing non-CVCC EL head.  If you swap heads you must keep the 79-81 heads and the 82-83 heads together due to the changes between the years.  Back in the day, Oscar Jackson of Jackson Racing used to make weekend runs from California to Vancouver, BC just to pick up a batch of EL heads. 

Transmission Choices:

When buying an engine I do recommend buying the engine and transmission as a combo.  The benefit is that all EL and EK used manual transmissions that were 5 speeds.  The transmission code for these transmissions begins with the letters - GK. 

If you choose to use the GK transmission make sure you use an 82-83 transmission as the 76-81 GK transmissions had hydraulic clutches.  The 82-83 GK's used a cable clutch just like the first generation Civic transmissions.  Its easy to spot a cable GK by the small arm that accepts the clutch cable. The mounting of the GK transmissions is the same from 76-83.

You can mount a 1200 or 1300 4 speed or 5 speed transmission to the EL/EK blocks but one has to have the mounting holes enlarged on the 1200/1300 flywheels as the crank bolts were larger on the EL/EK blocks (they went from M10 to M12 in late 1980).  A Hondamatic also would work and the Accords and Preludes came with 3 speed Hondamatics instead of the Civic's 2 speed Hondamatic. 

How To:

Chassis Mod:

Just one really and this is not critical....Remove the removable panel on the passenger side wheel well (this gives clearance for the 5 speed transmission, but can be re-installed once the engine is in).  This just gives a little more clearance to help squeeze the engine/tranny combo into to the hole.

Mounts:

Torque Rod:

1200 Only - For the swaps using the 79-81 motors, the 1200 torque rod has to be shortened by about 3 inches (see photo).  This is easily accomplished with a hack saw and a welder.  Or, get your hands on a CVCC torque rod as it is the same length.
















The torque rod modification is easier with the 79-81 EL/EK motors as the torque rod mounts to a bracket off the cylinder head.  It gets slightly more complicated with the 82-83 EL/EK motors as the bracket for the torque rod mounts to the transmission instead of the head. 

With the 82-83 engines best way to fix this is to re-drill the hole in the torque rod brackets about 2" lower than the stock height.  This keeps the torque rod level rather than at an angle.

The torque rod itself on the 82-83 motors is considerably shorter than the 79-81 motors.  The photo shows the shortened torque rod (Accord torque rod and Civic torque rod grafted together.

































Lower Transmission Mount:

This is at the cross member that runs under the transmission.  There is a small mod here that must take place so that the larger flywheel does not hit the mount.  There are a few ways to go about this...

1.        Have the flywheel machined down.  This provides enough clearance between the flywheel and the mount and has the added plus of running a lighter flywheel for better acceleration.  Most machine shops or even places with a brake lathe can do this for you for about $100.  Just make sure you make your timing marks longer so they are still there after its shaved down.  You can get them down to about 11 pounds. 

2.        Modify the mount.  I did this initially and still run the mount till this day.  Basically you just want to remove enough metal in the center of the mount to provide clearance for the bottom of the flywheel.  An angle grinder can get this done pretty quick.  I have a pic of where you need to cut it down but I have not provided a pic of the trimmed mount (as its still in my car!)

3.        Use some spacers (3) or some built up washers. this basically shifts everything over to one side by about 1/2 an inch to provide clearance for the flywheel.  I hear this works but have not tried it as I'm not sure about the stress this would put on everything else.

Cooling:

1200 only - The CVCC's use a 3 core rad and the 1200 uses a 2 core.  I stuck with the 1200 rad and the car still runs cool.  However, as the engine sits slightly different you need to use CVCC hoses for the upper and lower rad hose.  These hoses are still available new.

Shifter:

1200 only - The main shaft going to your transmission needs to be extended by about 3".  This is because the EL and EK sits farther forward.  Or use a CVCC or wagon shaft.  Keep in mind, if using the 4 speed transmission, its shaft will be slightly shorter.

Fuel Pump:

1200 only - The 1200's use a mechanical fuel pump and the EL and EK motors require an electronic fuel pump as . I used a generic Carter 2-4 psi pump and mounted it on my firewall. Surprisingly it is the perfect amount of pressure for both my dual carbs and also when I ran a Weber downdraft.  I have never needed a regulator either.  Mr Gasket also make a surprisingly small electric pump but I have not tried one.  CVCC's already run the electric pump so no changes needed.  I did try a CVCC pump but they are very loud (they click).

Electrical:

When sourcing an engine try and get the ignition coil and module. Its really only a few things anyway and will save time when wiring it up (its just a few wires).  The reason for this is that the 1200 ignition system used points and the EL and EK motors are electronic and use a magnetic pick-up on the distributor so there are a few extra wires to mess with.  If you do not get the original ignition set up its no huge deal as you can go after market with MSD, Mallory or Crane.

Exhaust:

1200 only - as the 1200 engines exhaust manifold is at the front of the engine vs at the rear of the engine as on the EL and EK motors some 'plumbing' work has to be done.  The 1200 pipe diameter is too skinny anyway.   I used 2" exhaust and had a shop do the bends for me.  Everything is the same with the bends except where it meets the motor.  No need to change this on CVCC cars unless you want the larger pipe.




EL/EK Engine Swap
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Late 80 to 81 EK Head (marked "PB2") or;
79 - 81 EL Head (same Port spacing)
82 - 83  EL Head (note the evenly spaced exhaust ports)
Shortened Torque Rod
Original 1200 Torque Rod
EL/EK Performance Parts:

I have been asked about EL and EK performance parts and what is available.  Nothing is left new but here are a few of the items out there:
79 - 81 EL Pace Setter Header (the Hondo Headers look the same)
2 Port Header (76-early 82 EK and EF CVCC motors)
<--  A/T Engineering dual carb intake for 76-81 EL Motors.   Harada also made one.

Lynx Single Carb side draft intake for 76-81 EL motors


A/T Engineering 4-1 header for the 79-81 EL motors



Jackson Racing Turbo Kit (79-80) EK motors..exert from the Jackson Racing Catalogue:

"...Exhaust volume and heat make the turbo spin.  So we cast a completely new exhaust manifold.  The turbocharger is bolted directly to this short new manifold.  This keeps the volume of the exhaust and heat high for instant throttle response...the heart of the kit is the new Warmerishi turbocharger.  Its small size and light impellers give our kits tremendous low end power and much broader boost rpm range. They come equipped with integral waste gate to control boost pressure.  Our standard turbo charged engine will start producing boost at 1800 rpm will be at maximum boost and in the waste gate at 3000 rpm..."

1980 Prelude Dyno H.P. - 126







79 to mid 80 EK 2 port Head
I need one of these headers, please contact me below if you have one!!!
A/T Engineering Dual Carb Intake for late 79 to 81 EK motors (note the CVCC runners)
79-81 torque rod modification:

82-83 torque rod modification:

note that the mounting holes have been re-drilled about 2" lower than the stock location


82-83 Accord Torque Rod mated to the First Gen Civic Torque Rod.





Lower Transmission Mount:

This is at the cross member that runs under the transmission.  There is a small mod here that must take place so that the larger flywheel does not hit the mount.  There are a few ways to go about this...

1.        Have the flywheel machined down.  This provides enough clearance between the flywheel and the mount and has the added plus of running a lighter flywheel for better acceleration.  Most machine shops or even places with a brake lathe can do this for you for about $100.  Just make sure you make your timing marks longer so they are still there after its shaved down.  You can get them down to about 11 pounds. 

2.        Modify the mount.  I did this initially and still run the mount till this day.  Basically you just want to remove enough metal in the center of the mount to provide clearance for the bottom of the flywheel.  An angle grinder can get this done pretty quick.  I have a pic of where you need to cut it down but I have not provided a pic of the trimmed mount (as its still in my car!)

3.        Use some spacers (3) or some built up washers. this basically shifts everything over to one side by about 1/2 an inch to provide clearance for the flywheel.  I hear this works but have not tried it as I'm not sure about the stress this would put on everything else.

Cooling:

1200 only - The CVCC's use a 3 core rad and the 1200 uses a 2 core.  I stuck with the 1200 rad and the car still runs cool.  However, as the engine sits slightly different you need to use CVCC hoses for the upper and lower rad hose.  These hoses are still available new.

Shifter:

1200 only - The main shaft going to your transmission needs to be extended by about 3".  This is because the EL and EK sits farther forward.  Or use a CVCC or wagon shaft.  Keep in mind, if using the 4 speed transmission, its shaft will be slightly shorter.

Fuel Pump:

1200 only - The 1200's use a mechanical fuel pump and the EL and EK motors require an electronic fuel pump as . I used a generic Carter 2-4 psi pump and mounted it on my firewall. Surprisingly it is the perfect amount of pressure for both my dual carbs and also when I ran a Weber downdraft.  I have never needed a regulator either.  Mr Gasket also make a surprisingly small electric pump but I have not tried one.  CVCC's already run the electric pump so no changes needed.  I did try a CVCC pump but they are very loud (they click).

Electrical:

When sourcing an engine try and get the ignition coil and module. Its really only a few things anyway and will save time when wiring it up (its just a few wires).  The reason for this is that the 1200 ignition system used points and the EL and EK motors are electronic and use a magnetic pick-up on the distributor so there are a few extra wires to mess with.  If you do not get the original ignition set up its no huge deal as you can go after market with MSD, Mallory or Crane.

Exhaust:

1200 only - as the 1200 engines exhaust manifold is at the front of the engine vs at the rear of the engine as on the EL and EK motors some 'plumbing' work has to be done.  The 1200 pipe diameter is too skinny anyway.   I used 2" exhaust and had a shop do the bends for me.  Everything is the same with the bends except where it meets the motor.  No need to change this on CVCC cars unless you want the larger pipe.